The Forgotten Valley of Tsum
Location
The valley is located in western Nepal, in the Gorka district, and is a detour on the incredibly beautiful trek around the eight-thousand-meter peak of Manaslu. The starting point of the trek is the town of Arugat Bazaar. After four days of trekking around Manaslu, we leave the valley of the Buddhi Gandaki River and enter the Tsum Valley, which gradually rises toward the passes leading into ancient Tibet. The valley is framed by six-thousand-meter peaks and serves as the gateway to the seven-thousand-meter Ganesh Himal massif.
Spirituality
The Tsum Valley is culturally closely connected to Tibet and its Vajrayana Buddhism, with a mix of the shamanic Bon religion. This territory has been declared 'Shyagya' (a non-violent area) by its inhabitants. This core principle, rooted in Tibetan Buddhism, is the foundation that shapes daily life in the valley. In the Tsum Valley, there are monasteries, chortens, and numerous mani walls— the land literally breathes Buddhism and spirituality. It is also home to the legendary Milarepa Cave (one of the famous Tibetan mystics), where this guru meditated in solitude for many years. The valley is also considered a 'beyul', which can be translated as a sacred hidden refuge for followers, created by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century (one of the founders of Buddhism in Nepal).
Fauna and flora
Tsum provides an excellent environment for wildlife, particularly blue sheep and musk deer, as well as the Himalayan tahr and even snow leopards. The region is home to approximately 2,000 plant species (50 of which are medicinal), 110 bird species, and 33 mammal species. This diverse natural environment hosts 11 different types of forests.
Local people
The local inhabitants live in small villages and cultivate their fields. In the upper valley, they grow wheat, corn, mustard, beans, potatoes, and vegetables, while in the lower part of the valley, they cultivate corn, millet, and buckwheat. Another source of income is animal husbandry, primarily for agricultural and dairy products. The valley has a tradition of artistic crafts, such as Thanka paintings (paintings on fabric or wood), stonework (mani walls), and the production of woven clothing and carpets. Some residents are employed in government or non-governmental organizations.
Tourism
The Tsum Valley was a restricted area for foreigners until 2008. After lobbying by the local residents, it was opened to tourism, and basic infrastructure in the form of home stays has slowly been developed. However, entry to Tsum is still conditioned upon special permission, which, of course, we can arrange.
Culture
The culture in the area is strongly influenced by Buddhism. In this, lamas play a significant role, as they are highly respected authorities. They teach religious norms, values, and spirituality through religious rituals and cultural celebrations. Becoming a monk or nun is a highly respected choice. Due to the remoteness of the area and inadequate healthcare infrastructure, traditional Amchi doctors, with their knowledge of herbal medicine, play an important role. There are also two modern community organizations in the region, the Tsum Welfare Committee and the Tsum Shyaga Conservation Committee, which provide institutional platforms for community development, the protection of culture, religion, and the identity of the Tsumba (local people). They also take care of promoting culture, practicing and spreading nonviolence, and fostering relationships and communication with government authorities.
Tsum Declaration
The Tsumba (local people) approved, in 1920, a declaration of nonviolence, based on Buddhist principles, proposed by the respected lama Serap Dordje Drukpu Ringpoche. This declaration became law in the Tsum area, and its points are as follows:
Do not kill any animals
Do not hunt
Do not collect honey
Do not sell animals to butchers
Do not capture animals or birds
Do not trade in meat
Do not burn forests
These laws are regularly reaffirmed during the cultural festivals held in the valley. As the local Lama Nima says, "We live here with all the wild animals and birds as members of one family."
The Tsum Valley was a powerful experience for me, and the highlight was spending the night in an ancient monastery at the end of the valley. During my visit, I did not encounter a single tourist. I highly recommend a visit and urge you to approach it with empathy and deep respect for the local people and their culture. It is often said: "Don't try to change Nepal, because Nepal can change you."
Mišo Gabriž